Sugar Sugar

This past month I was able to experience the EC101 concepts that I used to tutor on a daily basis. While it was kind of boring on paper (especially after teaching it for 4 years), it was fascinating to witness. A while back the birr (Ethiopian currency) was devalued by 22% by the government to attract foreign investors. This will probably prove to be a good move for the country, but for individuals it was devastating. Since then I've seen hotel and bus prices sky rocket (but not my allowance!) and the price of goods and services increase. This is bad news for people who already live in poverty. Recently the government imposed price ceilings on certain commodities to keep necessities affordable (sugar, oil, soap etc…). But, as all of my tutees should know, a decrease in price leads to an increase in demand and a decrease in supply and therefore shortages occur. If I had the internet power to upload graphics I'd really geek out and demonstrate on a graph. So when this happens in America it's not really noticeable to consumers, in the land of excess we don't run out of things very often and with more disposable income we tend to be less effected by a slight increase in price. However, in Ethiopia, it's a different story.  Because of the price decrease, shops have stopped selling these items and, in Masha at least, the government has become the only seller of sugar, oil and soap. I realized something was up when I had a really hard time finding oil one day…Ethiopian food is about 50% oil, not being able to find it was strange. The next day as I was walking to my office I noticed a mob of people and thought to myself "hmm, wonder what's going on. Glad it's not me". After I left my office there was still a crowd so I asked someone what was going on….the government was selling rations of said goods. Turns out it was me. Of course none of my English speaking friends were in line (most of my friends that know English are male, and of course they wouldn't be subjected to waiting in a "bread line"). It took me a while to figure out the system (lines do not exist in Ethiopia…everything's a free-for-all). I had to form a group of 25 people and then sign up with the government workers. Once we had our group established we were given a 100kg sack of sugar to split (4kg each) and a box of soap to share (4 bars each). By the time I got there they had already run out of oil. It took me three visits (once to figure out what it was, then I had to go home to get more money, then they took a lunch break) but I finally got my sugar and soap. It was quite the experience having to wait in the mob and secure my goods for the month. In the lush southwestern highlands there are rarely food shortages so it was a new thing for me. I have to say though, I was impressed with how things were run. It was a bit disorganized because of the lack of lines, but everyone worked together and cooperated with the government. When they ran out of oil the guy got up and apologized and nobody got upset. It was actually pretty neat.

                So after the whole ordeal I gave Peace Corps a call. They like to know what's going on in the small towns so they can monitor the situation and warn others what may be coming. Apparently they told HQ about it, too. It's funny to think about this situation in little Masha being discussed in DC. The PC staff assured me that this is relatively common here, and happened a few years ago. They suspect in a few months everything will be back to normal and the shops will start selling again.

                And now for the good news! I haven't spoken about the Youth Center project in quite a while, mostly because my hopes had been diminished. I hadn't heard from the embassy in a long time and I assumed the worst. To make me even more upset I heard from a PC volunteer in another region that he had gotten a call about it, but I hadn't. Yesterday I walked to the compound donated by the town for the Center to kind of say goodbye. This morning, however, I got the call. The embassy called to say that our proposal was a finalist and they thought the project looked solid. In a few weeks they will schedule a visit to Masha to assess our capacity to carry out the project! I was thrilled that it's not over. I immediately shot out of bed (it was an early phone call!) and went to tell all my guys in town the good news. Their positive reactions were amazing. It was so awesome to see them so happy and excited. I loved that I had something good to tell them, finally. Now we just need to prove to the US government that we can do this project. I have faith. 

People Are Strange

Unlike last year I actually stayed up to ring in the new year this time around. I am really hoping for 2011 to be worlds better than 2010, so I started it off right. I spent the weekend in the city Mizan with a handful of friends and had a wonderful time complete with wine, one confetti popper, card games, singing and dancing...several nights in a row. Needless to say a good time was had by all. The best story I have to offer you from the New Years weekend is from Sunday afternoon. Before beginning I have to, once again, clarify that my blog is in no way affiliated with the US Peace Corps and this is just an anecdotal story, not one that gives a rounded perspective on life in Ethiopia.

I'll start the story from the middle. 

I really completed a Peace Corps stereotype the other day. The photos really capture the glamorous vision of Peace Corps that tv and to movies portray. The Peace Corps that I wanted to join a few years ago, the one where volunteers are always happy and smiling. I was with 3 other volunteers, laughing and joking around with hoards of little African children. We were, like good hippies, playing frisbee in an open field surrounded by lush mountains and forests. I wore a tie dye t-shirt, chacos and a homemade friendship bracelet. One volunteer had a camera out taking photos of all the children and we were all holding hands and smiling. It could have been a promotional poster. But what that poster would miss is what lead up to that moment. The part of being a Peace Corps volunteer that you don't hear about in media campaigns or from characters like the young Barney Stinson in HIMYY before suiting up.

We had decided to go on a hike to a waterfall that was up on one of the mountains surrounding Mizan. As per usual, we picked up a few cling-ons along the way and our band of 4 became a mass of children with one additional creeper. We picked up orange shirt man on the main road and thought nothing of it as he followed us down the foot paths. This is a common occurrence so we continued on our journey, ignoring him and avoiding eye contact. About 30 minutes into the hike this grown man was still with us...now it is annoying. We approach him and politely tell him to leave us alone, we have no money for him and to stop following us. He doesn't. Several times we try to get him to leave and he always looks at us like we're crazy...why on earth should we want him to go away? So we stop for a little while giving him the benefit of the doubt, hoping that he would continue on his way...maybe he actually was headed in that direction and we just assumed he was following us. Nope. He steps to the side and turns, he takes the break as an opportunity to take a pee. So we decide to go on, perhaps he'll eventually give up. Another time we stop, tell him to go away and wait there until he gets bored with us. So he steps to the side...peeing again? Nope. He exposes himself to us and waves his man parts in our direction (maybe he's making a Monty Python reference?). We tell him he's disgusting and rude and that he really needs to go away. So then he picks a few bananas and shoves them in our faces, after the previous little show the thought of bananas is revolting. This goes on for a while and we reach the edge of the forest and decide that the man will not leave us alone, and while the 4 of us could probably take him if he tried any funny business, it would be better to give up on the hike and stay where people are present. That's when we take out the frisbee so the whole trip isn't wasted. After an hour of tossing the disc with the kids we turn around and realize orange shirt man was still lurking waiting to follow us some more. At this time we're so annoyed we can't be polite anymore and tell him to get the hell away from us or we'll bring him to the police station. He stays back for a while, and just when we think we're in the clear he pops up behind me and strokes my arm, then drops trou again. I've never felt so disgusting in my life. We storm on, not looking back until we finally get into town. We stop for juice to cool off for a bit and then when we leave the cafe we realize he was waiting outside for us. The guy would not go away. We grab a bajaj and ride back to my friends house quickly so he can't follow. It's moments like those that I wish people from home would visit so they realize that life in the Peace Corps isn't that image of the hippie kids playing with children loving life all day long. It's difficult and sometimes unbearable, but those frisbee playing moments make it all worth it. Just please don't think that it's easy.

Rat King

So I've been so down about the holiday season I've neglected to look for the subtle hints that Christmas is all around. I've decided that I'm living in The Nutcracker….well, at least the part with the army of rats. When I got back to Masha I was welcomed by a trashed kitchen. They ate through my plastic containers filled with sugar, honey and flour. They didn't eat the flour but it appeared that they rolled around in it than ran all over the place. Every surface was coated with white powder. My Ramen noodles were all eaten and everything not locked up had little nibbles taken out of it. I was kind of amused, I expected something to have happened while I was away. So I laughed it off and cleaned up everything, washed every dish, pot and pan, washed the floors and went shopping. 

The next day every vegetable was eaten and things were thrown all over the place. Not funny anymore. Every morning I woke up to a mess and a few missing items. A few days ago I found the nest, and in it was 6 sponges, 2 dish rags, 2 pot holders a water bottle, my salt shaker, the lid to my oil and mounds of rat droppings. Disgusting. My landlady found a bunch of kittens and gave them to my sitemate and I. They lasted two days before mama cat found them and stole them back. Good thing, too. They were too young to be away from their mother and smaller than my rats. Pretty useless. So a few days later a friend of mine brings over her cat to help us out. This cat (we've named Pooh…not after the lovable character of our youth, but after her horrible flatulence) has been both a blessing and a curse. She has not caught a rat yet, but she cries SO MUCH and SO LOUDLY that the rats are afraid to come near. So we don't have rats, but now we have this crazy, obnoxious cat. She does have her moments that she is sweet and will sleep on our laps, but other times she is so animalistic and wild it's a bit scary. We feed her bull lungs and leftover food. When we come back from the butcher with the bull lung she turns into a wild animal. One she leapt a few feet in the air, grabbed onto the bag and hung onto it until it tore and the meat was free. She drives us and our neighbors insane, but it's nice to have my kitchen back and be able to keep food for more than a day. It's like having to choose the lesser of two evils. I hate how it always has to be one or the other, and things can't ever be perfect, not even for a little while. 

Where Everybody Knows Your Name

I have been back in Ethiopia for about 3 weeks now and haven't had a bad day yet. It's true...the second year is SO much better than the first. The first few days I spent in Addis reuniting with old friends and making new friends with Group 4. I was amazed by how at home I felt. When I landed at Bole International and got on a taxi to head to my hotel it was so familiar and so comfortable (not sure if comfortable is an appropriate word...nothing here is actually comfortable). It made my trip to the States feel like a vacation and, by some cruel twist of fate, Ethiopia is my actual home. The best part was definitely the return to Masha. It's like Cheers...everybody knows my name. It used to drive me crazy when the kids screamed my name incessantly from every direction, but I love it now (for the time being at least). I also have a lot of new neighbors and a site mate now, which makes a world of a difference. My site mate is pretty awesome and a bit dorky...we get along well.

Work has been going well since coming back, too. I haven't heard about the Youth Center grant yet...but the Embassy told me that they are still reviewing. It's not too late! The garden I started was planted while I was away, which was a pleasant surprise. It seems to be doing well...everything has sprouted at least. I also started a new project with the PLWHA Association. We're going to start a mill house for an income generating activity. So far everything is going smoothly. I hope to submit the proposal in February. I kind of want to to a Partnership Grant, which means that you all can get involved by donating! This way you can be a part of my work, too. 

Christmas is in a few days. Just like last year it doesn't feel like Christmas is coming at all. There are no lights on the houses, no tree, no ABC Family 25 Days of Christmas, no Christmas music on every radio station 24/7, no cookies, no family... This weekend we will have a bit of a celebration though. I now have 15 neighbors in my general area so we're all getting together for a pot luck feast, card games and maybe a white elephant gift exchange. Modest, but it will be nice to have the company, our mismatched little Jimma-Loop family. 

So that's about all that's going on. I'll write some stories next time to be a little more interesting. Until then, Happy Holidays! I miss you all!

And.....a wish list!!

Ultimate Frisbee disc

Music

Chocolate

Snacks (granola bars, trail mix, cookies...)

Sauce/Dressing mixes

Cheese (velveeta is fine until opened)

Craft Activities

Flute music

Magazines

Books 

Tomato seeds (I'm starting my own little sack garden)

Surprises! 

Back in the Saddle Again

After months and months of anticipation, my trip home has come and gone in a flash. At the moment I am sitting in the airport waiting to board my flight home (home, being Ethiopia). This time is a bit different than the first, I am less nervous, less sad, less wide-eyed and hopeful and more prepared, more confident and more ready. Last time I was going on a brand new adventure not knowing who I would meet, where I'd end up or what I would do. This time I know exactly where I'm going, what I need to do and who I'm going to reunite with. But there's still that sense of new adventure. First thing I'm going to do is help out at PST and meet all the new kids and my new neighbors. I'm also going to see a few people I've been missing during my absence. I have projects that I am excited to finish and people I am excited to see. I feel like I'm going home, not away.

I am very thankful that I left Masha on a good note. Things were really shaky at the end and I was unsure of whether or not I'd be returning. Being able to go back to my home is a relief and I'm really looking forward to it. I miss Masha, it's where I belong. Being excited to return, though, does not mean I am happy to leave America. This was perhaps one of the best months I can remember. I saw almost everyone I wanted to see (I'm so, so sorry to those I missed...a month goes by quickly!) and ate almost everything I wanted to eat. I made my way across the country from MD to CO to NJ/NY to CT and back to MD again. I did some work (APHA conference and speaking to groups about the Peace Corps) celebrated the holiday with family and had more fun than is good for anyone. Thank you to everyone that went along with my plans, stayed out longer than you would have otherwise and for all the generous giving. Everything was perfect. I already miss you all and eagerly await you letters (especially you, Michael).

I will try to post again when I actually get there, but who knows what the internet/electricity situation will be like. Until next time, thank you and I love you all.

....

I had several requests to post another wish list (yessss!) for care packages. I will do this when I get back to Masha and see what I have and what I need. Thanks!

Just Stay

Since my last post I have done some community mobolizing to make it so I do not have to leave my little town of Masha. I spoke to my buddy Ato Getahun (the mayor), the guys I work with and community members about the issue at hand. They were shocked and quite upset by the news that I would have to leave town if the problem wasn't solved quickly. Immediately they sprang into action and started asking for donations and assistance. It felt so great that my community wants to keep me so badly. Often I wonder if people here like me or realize the work that I'm doing, so the tremendous effort made me feel appreciated. The town fought for me as hard as I fought for the town. It was a GREAT feeling.

So now the problem is resolved and I will not be moving to Arbra Minch. I can remain in my town and continue the work that I started. Of course now the pressure is really on to be successful.

We Can Work it Out

I have spoken to many of you about this, but those of you who have heard second or third hand, here is the story.

There has been an ongoing issue in Masha that Peace Corps has been working on finding a solution to for some time now. The issue itself is a story best told in person, but it is not entirely crucial to the story. Until just a few days ago everyone thought this was an easy problem to solve and it just took talking to the right people. This is why I was so shocked when I got a call at 7am Friday morning saying "Nikki, I think it is best if you leave Masha". I was crushed. My initial reaction was quite strong and I immediately got on a bus to Addis to discuss this decision that had been made without my input. During our discussion I learned that the problem was not that easy to solve, and I realized that the staff really had done everything in their power...there are just too many administrative obstacles. Of course I protested... I'm so invested in this community and the projects I have started. After the waterfall incident and the youth center project just falling into place I was SURE that this was the reason I was sent to Ethiopia. This is my purpose and the meaningful contribution I am meant to make. If I leave my town it's all taken away and in the year I've been here I will have accomplished nothing. I would have to start all over in a new town...by the time I integrate myself into the community, identify projects and get an idea it will be time for me to leave. A year is not enough time to do something big.
The last option we identified is to rally my co-workers, the town administrators, my friends and the community to fight for me. We're going to put the pressure on the right people to take action, to solve the problem once and for all to allow me to stay in the town I've come to adore. We set the deadline at Oct 11th, so that way if I do have to move I can do so before I go home in November. I'm really hoping it doesn't come to that though. I like my town, I like my work, and I really like my (pcv) neighbors. In the city they are planning to move me to I would not be close to any of my friends, I'd be a full day away from anyone and my support system will be reduced to telephone conversations.
I will update when I know what's going on. Until then don't send any mail, I'd hate to miss any letters because I had to change my address.

Before ending this post I do have to say that Peace Corps has been wonderful about the whole situation. They have been calling people every day trying to find a solution that works for everybody. They have seriously looked at all the possibilities and are giving it everything they've got to keep me in Masha. They've let me come to Addis to see friends for stress relief and everytime I call or stop by the office they put down everything to talk with me. I'm in no way upset with the organization or staff members about anything, their hands are tied and if the problem isn't solved I know I have no choice but to move. Everyone has been so helpful and supportive, it's just a tough situation.

I should also mention before signing off that i'm safe and healthy. No worries about me. I'll tell everyone all about it in November.